Wildlife photography: how hard can it be?

Eye of a leopard cub, in black and white © Helen Webb, Travel Africa magazine

I am often asked what makes a good wildlife photograph, and my answer is always the same: it’s one that brings back a moment in time that means a lot to you. By Helen Webb.

Of course, some photographers dream of competition-winning images. There’s nothing wrong with that. But for most of us, the photographs we treasure are the ones that transport us to a particular morning, a notable sighting or a feeling we never want to forget.

Wildlife photography is probably the hardest genre of photography. Everything seems stacked against you before you even begin. The light changes constantly, backgrounds are rarely perfect, animals refuse to pose, and the best moments often last only a second or two.

A week on a dedicated photographic safari certainly improves your chances of coming home with some wonderful images, but despite today’s cameras being capable of capturing hundreds of frames in a matter of seconds, I’d suggest that returning home with a handful of photographs you’re genuinely proud of is a more realistic goal.

The best preparation starts before you even leave camp. Take equipment that you’re completely familiar with, keep spare batteries and memory cards close at hand, and wear clothes you’ll still be comfortable in after a full day in the vehicle. Safari days begin before sunrise and often finish after sunset, and once the day’s game drive is over there’s still batteries to charge, memory cards to download and, hopefully, time to relive the day’s highlights around the campfire.

Out in the bush, concentration is everything. Help your guide by listening for alarm calls and watching for movement. Don’t be embarrassed by the occasional false alarm — we’ve all excitedly pointed at a rock that turned out not to be a leopard. Better that than missing something amazing.

When you do find a subject, take a photograph right away and then check your settings. If you’re watching lions asleep beneath a tree, there’s plenty of time to slow down, think about your composition and refine the image. Afterwards, remember to return your camera to your normal settings so you’re ready for whatever appears next.

One mistake many photographers make is overlooking familiar animals. Once we’ve photographed impalas or zebras, we often dismiss them as “ordinary”. Yet a beautifully lit impala can produce a far stronger photograph than a lion asleep in deep shade.

Perhaps the greatest lesson I’ve learned is simply to stay longer.

Animals relax surprisingly quickly once they realise you’re no threat, showing all sorts of behaviour you can photograph. Sit quietly with a herd of elephants and you’ll hear their rumbles, the crunch of branches, soft footsteps and all the sounds that bring the bush to life.

Every now and then, I encourage people to do something that feels completely counter-intuitive: to put their camera down, close their eyes and simply lose themselves in the ambience. These are the moments you’ll remember for the rest of your life.

Understanding behaviour helps too. Birds often poop just before taking flight, giving you an extra second for the shot. Wild dogs become noisy before they hunt. Hippos snort as they emerge from the water. The more you understand your subject, the more prepared you’ll be when that special moment arrives.

Modern cameras make it very easy to come home with thousands of photographs. But perhaps it’s better to take your time and get a few shots to be proud of?

Remember, the best wildlife photographs don’t simply record what you saw: they remind you exactly how it felt to be there.

Helen Webb keeps a photographic diary when she’s on safari – take a minute (or an hour) to browse through her entries of ‘one image a day’ by clicking here.

Lioness © Helen Webb, Travel Africa magazine
If you can (and there is a safety issue here) try to get as low as possible when photographing wildlife. The distance between the foreground and background will give you a much better chance of blurring out the unnecessary parts of the image. Be careful when doing this as horizons can easily break up the subject making the end result poor. Try also to keep the colours to a minimum and as close to the subjects’ as you can. This photograph was taken with a 400mm lens on f2.8 and I was leaning so far out of the vehicle that I was almost not in it at all. It is vital that you get the eyes in focus so spot focus on them. If you can, use a shutter speed to capture sharp eyes as well as showing some movement in the body, as this will make the subject seem more alive.
Leopard in the dark © Helen Webb, Travel Africa magazine
Sun rays sneaking through the trees lit up this resting leopard in a moment of pure luck. If I had not been concentrating, if I had not had the camera ready, if I had not realised that I needed to be spot on with the exposure then this iconic moment would have been missed forever photographically. Seconds after this shot was taken this beautiful cat slipped into the darkness of the woods behind and disappeared. Using spot exposure in a situation such as this heightens the possibly of getting the exposure right in camera - crucial for wildlife competitions as these have very strict rules regarding alterations.
Dung beetle beettling dung © Helen Webb, Travel Africa magazine
Don’t forget the little creatures as they too have stories to tell. Once again keep the focus on the subject and try to lose the background unless of course it gives context to the photo. I lay on the ground as this dung beetle carried on with its work. Although it moved fairly slowly the extremely tight depth of field meant that I had to alter my position constantly. I think I took about 20 pictures of this creature and only one was good enough to keep. I could have moved it into a better position by hand but that would be totally unethical and not something I practise. We are in their world, not them in ours, after all.
Hyenas in black and white © Helen Webb, Travel Africa magazine
When the action is taking place right in front of you and you have no time to change position for a better background, there is the option of changing the image to a black and white in post processing. This eliminates colour distractions and keeps the focus on the subject. Keeping the f-stop as low as possible also blurs the other elements in the shot which are not in keeping. Using the Dodge and Burn tools in Photoshop can highlight the aspects which you want to be dominant. Black and white can be very powerful, but use it sparingly. You will generally need a much faster shutter speed with wildlife photography - start at about 1/1000 but don’t be shy to use anything up to 1/2500.
Giraffes on the horizon © Helen Webb, Travel Africa magazine
Silhouettes should be simple. The shape of the animal should be distinctive and, if you can, make sure that the appropriate amount of legs are showing. (unlike this one here!) There should be no overlapping of the animals - this just confuses the viewer. Keeping colours to a minimum also helps with the simplicity. The trick to getting your subject on the horizon is to ensure that the point you are taking the photo from is lower than the subject, and that the background is clear of all distractions. Keep a look out during the day for a suitable spot in readiness for that evening sunset and just hope that something passes by at the right time.
Elephant tusks © Helen Webb, Travel Africa magazine
There are times when it is difficult to find a shot worthy of taking. An elephant herd walking close by is a typical scenario. Too closely packed together for an individual shot and far too many to take the whole herd in one frame. Change your thinking and get in close. Pick an iconic part of the animal to make it undeniably recognisable. This photo is harder to take than it looks. The background needed to be dark and uncluttered to ensure that the viewer’s eye went straight to the lighter tusks. Using an elephant as the background as opposed to a green bush meant that the image was just two colours - again less distraction for the viewer.
Martial eagle © Helen Webb, Travel Africa magazine
When the sun is at its highest, draining colour from the landscape, try turning your attention to high-key shots. An immature martial eagle was quietly perched on this dead branch looking for its next meal. After taking a test shot I added exposure compensation, while being very careful not to blow out the white chest feathers of the bird. High-key shots are best if the subject and surroundings are at a minimum. There is no room for error so, if you can, try different exposure compensations and check the histogram to ensure that the subject has as much tonal range as possible.
Hyenas in colour © Helen Webb, Travel Africa magazine
Early in the morning when the light is at its best — if you are lucky enough to come across a scene such as this group of hyenas squabbling over a giraffe leg, then let loose with your camera. There will be in-fighting, drooling, dragging bits of the leg away and general mayhem. So much will be happening that your cards and batteries will be used up in no time. In this particular photo there is a bright patch of water behind the hyenas which, in my mind, ruins the shot. You need to be aware of the backgrounds even when the action is exhilarating. Ask the guide to move the vehicle if you can whilst still trying to keep that beautiful light on your subject.
Eye of a leopard cub, in black and white © Helen Webb, Travel Africa magazine
Hidden amongst the shrubbery a small leopard cub was waiting for mum to come back from the hunt. With hardly any chance of it coming out into the open you have to work very hard to get a shot. You have only a few moments before the youngster will retreat back into the undergrowth. In colour this image has too much bright green which distracts from the cub itself, but by turning it into black and white it shows the natural behaviour of this elusive animal. A shallow depth of field has also blurred the surroundings framing the leopard in a realistic way.

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