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Self-drive Murchison Falls

Self-drive Murchison Falls

For inexperienced visitor Steuart Laing, being independent made his Uganda adventure all the more memorable The road to Uganda’s Murchison Falls National Park might not be paved with gold, but it is paved with fresh tar. China recently funded the highway and supervised its construction. Today tourists flock to the Murchison Falls National Park to see wildlife that, over the last twenty years, has become abundant. Before entering the park we diverted to nearby Pakwach to refuel our rental...

For the love of birds

For the love of birds

Despite Uganda’s relatively small size, its unique position means a rich portfolio of habitats and thus a profusion of species. What’s more, you don’t need to be on a specialist safari to see countless feathered delights, from the great blue turaco to the famed shoebill. Words and photographs by Mike Unwin Silence. Suddenly. The maniacal shrieking that has ripped through Kibale Forest National Park for the last three minutes stops abruptly, as though unplugged at the wall. The chimps,...

Uganda unwrapped

Uganda unwrapped

An insider’s overview from the experts at Steppes Travel Why Visit? Congolese rainforest meets eastern savannah in this dramatic country. Troops of chimpanzees swing through the vines of Kibale and mountain gorilla families shelter within Bwindi’s dense forests. Although renowned for its iconic primates, Uganda possess a remarkable diversity of wildlife. Lions climb the trees of Queen Elizabeth National Park, shoebills shelter beside Murchison Falls and Rothschild’s giraffes roam the Kidepo Valley. In a relatively small country, Uganda packs...

Giraffe are counting on us

Giraffe are counting on us

Fiona Mackay tells us about the conservation work being done in Kidepo Valley National Park to protect the world’s tallest mammal, which was listed as Vulnerable to Extinction by the IUCN in 2017 Like many animals across the world, giraffe have an uncertain future. They are facing what has been termed a ‘silent extinction’. While the world’s attention remains on elephant, rhino and the big cats, this iconic animal is gradually disappearing, suffering the effects of both habitat loss...

Behind Budongo

Behind Budongo

Emma Gregg examines the ecosystem and conservation projects of this biodiverse forest reserve, one of Africa’s best places to track chimpanzees. She also discusses the work of Professor Vernon Reynolds, founder of the Budongo Conservation Field Station Sometimes, as you drive through the southern reaches of Uganda’s Murchison Falls Conservation Area, between the Kichumbanyobo Gate and the Victoria Nile, you’ll hear a volley of hoots and screams reverberating through the trees. The locals call the racket a kelele. This...

Adrenaline rush

Adrenaline rush

The adventure capital of East Africa has much to offer the intrepid traveller — from bungee jumping and quadbiking to whitewater rafting and kayaking. Lizzie Williams reviews the best activities When visiting Uganda, the focus is usually to head west from Kampala to see the mountain gorillas in the tangled forests, and to go on game drives in national parks such as Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls. But just a couple of hours’ drive to the east of the...

Cat’s cradle

Cat’s cradle

Laura Griffith-Jones travels to Ishasha, in the isolated south of Queen Elizabeth National Park, to experience a true Ugandan wilderness and seek its fabled tree-climbing lions The wide-open savannah of the north of Queen Elizabeth National Park is broken only by acacias, giant cacti and herds of buffalo, topi and Uganda kob, backed by the mystical Rwenzori Mountains. The scenery transforms as we drive towards Ishasha, in the park’s far-flung south-west; and soon we are passing through dense forest...

A day in the life of a chimp

A day in the life of a chimp

On the edge of the Rwenzoris lies a mystical land of volcanic lakes, majestic peaks and dense jungle. Laura Griffith-Jones sets off to western Uganda to see the chimpanzees of Kibale. (This picture is by Andy Skillen. To see more of his images, click here.) It was 5.30am as we slid along slimy mud tracks in a 4WD, deep in western Uganda’s impenetrable forests. The darkness was intense and the mist hovered forebodingly. “Is it going to rain?” I...

Riding in the Pearl of Africa

Riding in the Pearl of Africa

Lake Mburu National Park’s diverse landscape is home to plentiful plains game and birds. Laura Griffith-Jones dodges warthogs and termite mounds on an exhilarating horseback adventure in this undervalued jewel I am galloping across a wide-open valley in Lake Mburu National Park. Water droplets spray up from beneath the horses’ thudding hooves, refracting the light like a prism. Nostrils flared, our mounts draw heavily on the hot, damp air. It is May and the emerald season is in full...

Magical mystery tour

Magical mystery tour

Uganda’s crater lakes are beyond spectacular. Ben West explores the south-west on two wheels, taking in Mutanda, Bunyonyi and Mburu I’m pretty sure that Lake Mutanda, when viewed from the right vantage point on a clear day, is the most stunning landscape I’ve ever seen. The majestic Virunga mountains in the distance are reflected in the deep-blue waters of the lake, and little lush green islands pepper the aquatic expanse. This heaven on earth looks almost completely untouched by...

The roof of the Rwenzoris

Rwenzori Mountains

The mysterious Mountains of the Moon are among the most fabled places in Africa, yet they remain surprisingly unspoilt. And conquering the summit of Uganda’s snow-encrusted highest peak is challenging to say the least. Words and photographs by Morgan Trimble I clawed over a final bit of steep rock jutting out through crunchy snow. My guide Benard offered me a hand; crampons are treacherous on exposed rock and a fall here could be deadly. The final obstacle overcome, I...

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